Our Arched Cabin water line is all set up and ready for the next step
Our arched cabin water line was supposed to be an easy hook up, but we think it’s going to be a challenge in the end. The previous owner had done some of the groundwork. So we anticipated a really easy hookup. However, there’s a lot of things he hadn’t completed. The stuff that we did find didn’t make a whole lot of sense. I think it’s going to take us some time to figure out what exactly he did.
What did we use for our water line?
I think pretty much every single seeking tool in the arsenal was used for this. We even dragged out the metal detector! In the end, Mike and I put the backhoe to work as well as good old fashioned shoveling. We used a hammer drill to bore through the concrete riser and place our conduit. The backhoe has been good for what I’m calling, “exploratory surgery.” We’re able to dig test holes fairly quickly and put them back together in more or less the same condition it was in when we found it. I’m pretty sure that the previous owner would have some things to say about his previously billiard table flat build site.
The Cost for the arched cabin water line as well as the project
Costs for the water line are as follows: 100 feet of 3/4″ Pex $21.50 2 inch Schedule 40 PVC conduit 10′ each x 20 – $130.80 or $6.54 each 2 inch Schedule 40 PVC elbow 90° x 2 $5.72 or $2.86 each Coupler PVC $.99 PVD 45° bend $3.79 2 1/2″ PVC Cutter $22.48 Electrical Cable 250 feet are $138.73 Total cost of water line from control pit to house $321.15 or about $7.14/linear foot
20 X 32 Arched Cabin House Kit: $13,032.50. (paid in 2017 and includes the delivery cost) Architect to finish plans for permits & help navigate some building department stuff. $1570 Initial Soil Testing $1550 Open Hole Inspection $325 Driveway Permit $50 Pre-Site Inspection $40 Permits $1797 Excavation $14,062.70 (we ran into the septic line at one point, plus there’s also an easement being installed between our place and Mike’s Mom’s place) Power Drop $3026 Concrete $1020.40 Shipping Container $3344.25 – Will become a workshop after the build Tile & Sink for downstairs bathroom $563.10 Meter Box Install – $448.20 Septic Line to the house $164.48 or $3.46/foot.
Total Cost (excluding land) $41, 314.78 (including today’s water line)
We are getting so close to putting this house up guys! I’m seriously losing my mind at how close we are. We needed to get the power install going because using a generator gets old really fast. The power drop was installed almost 2 years ago, and we’ve payed our dues on the build site. That being said, it was the logical next step in the process to make the rest of the build go more smoothly.
Where to start? Your power company is going to be the ones who set the guidelines for how the meter goes on your power pole. You can either hire an electrician to do this or if you’re remotely handy you can do this yourself. Here’s a link to the document that we had to follow, in case you are curious. Once you’ve gone over the guidelines, it’s just time to order your supplies and get cracking!
Supplies & cost for the project
Here is a cost breakdown for the parts we purchased:
The box, ground bus, and adapter for the conduit $175.50 Weather head $18 Conduit $115.50 Power cable to go into conduit $65.50 Brackets to hold conduit to pole $4.16 20 AMP breaker $6.59 GFI receptacle $23.99 Fittings $7.98 wiring for the box $15.99 weatherproof box $14.99
Total cost $448.20
I’m going to say that we paid less than half of what it would cost to hire an electrician for the job. I feel confident in this choice because our install is being looked at by trained professionals, and I’m confident that Mike did a decent job on the project because he knows what he’s looking at. If you’re curious how much it cost us to have the power drop put in, check out this blog post I did on the power drop.
I really feel like choosing to do this ourselves is going to save us an astronomical amount of money. You can’t go wrong, but I’m sure many will tell us that we’ve lost our minds. Just because we may not know how to do something now, doesn’t mean that given the opportunity we can’t learn. Part of being a human being is that we are capable of so much more than we realize. You just have to be bold enough to get out there and fail a lot. Try things and fail miserably at them, because you’ll learn not just about the subject matter that you’re working with. You will also learn so much about who you are and what you’re truly capable of.
We have finally begun construction on the arched cabin starting with the Arched Cabin foundation! Currently, we are still waiting for materials to run all of the service lines into the house, but just a couple of weeks ago we were setting up the foundation! We should hopefully have the shell up before the snow flies, depending on how quickly we get our building materials delivered.
Next up, we are currently working on running all of our service lines into the house. Septic has been located, and we got some of our materials in for the meter and power drop. We are just waiting on some building supplies for that step, and with everything going on in the world right now that’s a challenge. Building supplies are apparently in high demand at the moment or their sources are having trouble obtaining supplies. Either way, the supply chain is making stuff a wee bit slow going at the moment.
What are we planning?
We are planning to run water, power, septic, and propane all at once as we have to get all of those trenches inspected. We also have to get some 2″ square tube to weld to the columns. Those will be used to to secure the columns to the I beams. Those I beams are where Mike and I will be building the subfloor and erecting the Arched Cabin. We are getting going, but it’s still a lot of hurry up and wait. We can’t wait too long though, because we’re already at the end of August.
If you are interested in supporting us in other ways, you can always buy some soap!
Are you wanting to learn more about the cost associated with the project so far? click here.
Do you want to purchase your own arched cabin. Visit their website here.
We are FINALLY building the house. The title says it all. The arched cabin foundation forms set & inspected. We poured concrete last week, and have begun to dig the trenches for sewer, water, gas, and power. It’s both exhilarating and exhausting to build your own house. My brain has been on overload with all of the new information that has been dumped into it over the past few weeks as things have been ramping up.
What’s next for the Arched Cabin & Life?
While the concrete hangs out to cure this week, Mike has to sneak up on replacing the transmission that died on his truck. We kind of need the truck for doing and hauling things. We have also started the work for all of our service lines coming into the house. I just realized that he should probably consider trenching in the phone line as well in case we decide to get a landline since there’s no cell service to speak of in the area. In this case, we really need to be forward thinking in planning for the future of the house in order to prevent having to trench things in after the house is complete. We’ve discussed things such as putting in fiber optic cables between the houses for a larger “home network”, putting in a frost free hydrant next to the garden, rainwater collection system that ties into the cistern, etc etc etc. So we have a lot of considerations while planning the layout of everything.
Costs for the Arched Cabin
I haven’t updated this in ages, so it’s time to talk about the costs so far as follows: 20 X 32 Arched Cabin House Kit: $13,032.50. (paid in 2017 and includes the delivery cost) Architect to finish plans for permits & help navigate some building department stuff. $1570 Initial Soil Testing $1550 Open Hole Inspection $325 Driveway Permit $50 Pre-Site Inspection $40 Permits $1797 Excavation $14,062.70 (we ran into the septic line at one point, plus there’s also an easement being installed between our place and Mike’s Mom’s place) Power Drop $3026 Concrete $1020.40 Shipping Container $3344.25 – Will become a workshop after the build Tile & Sink for downstairs bathroom $563.10 Total Cost (excluding land) $40,380.95
You can read more in depth about some of the costs that I’ve covered here. I’ll periodically be updating the costs as we go, but that is the original post and goes more in depth on some of this. If you’re interested in building your own arched cabin, you can visit the Arched Cabin by clicking here.
I’m so excited that we are building our dream! Thank you so much for following along on our journey. Have an amazing day!
We decided with all the craziness going on that it was really important to get our raised bed garden in full swing this year.
I constructed 2’x3′ raised beds out of corrugated metal and 2x4s. Each raised bed cost about $43 to make, and will cost the average handy-person even less because I made several errors which resulted in me using half again the amount of wood originally required.
Cut and supply list for 7 raised beds:
2x4x19.5″ x 38 and rip 14 of those into 2x2s. (four 2x4s and four 2x2s per bed) 2x4x25″ x 14 – rip to 2x2s (four per bed) Inside corners 25″ X 14 (two per bed) Miters 45 degrees inside corners 36″ X 14 (two per bed) Corrugated metal *please note actual size is 26″ even if sold as 24″ Purchased six of the 24″x12′ and cut to fit the inside dimensions of each box. Assembled with #10 x 3 1/2″ coarse auger thread construction screws for the wood, and pan head sheet metal screws #8 x 1″ (went through 1+ boxes of 100)
We assembled the tops and bottoms first using a #10 3 1/2″ construction screw*, and then we cut the sheet metal to fit each box individually. After we cut the sheet metal, we pre-drilled the holes into the sheet metal. 4 holes for the side panels (2 top, 2 bottom), and 6 holes for the front and back panels (3 top, 3 bottom). Next, we used a 8×1 pan head sheet metal screw** to attach the sheet metal to the top and bottom frames of the bed. Once the sheet metal was attached to both the tops and bottoms of the boards, we secured the inside corners using a 2″x2″x25″ piece of wood on the inside corner and then a 19.5″ 2×4 on the outside corner spanning the joint for the boards on the top and the bottom for increased strength) and then a 19.5″ 2×2 on the other side of the corner for symmetry and additional strength on the corner.
The joint will end up looking like this. and here is a photo after we attach the mitered pieces to the top of the frame. You will want to trim those up so the corners meet up. You can also see the 2×2 on the inside corner in this image as well. The rocks on the ground are because that was how I marked out the layout of the garden on the ground.